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How to read inkle pickup patterns

Read the motif grid row by row, alternate the natural shed, then lift or lower only the charted pattern threads.

Bordered Pickup Key Fob 17 ends / 5 pattern threads / 6 rows · 5 navy pattern / 12 cream ground & borders / 9 H / 8 U One weft pass per row. Charted adjustments.
Bordered Pickup Key Fob 17-end maker sample band
01

Explore the 6-row pickup chart

Read the 6×5 motif grid, observe the alternating natural shed, and see exactly which pattern threads lift or lower for each weft pass.

Core rule for Baltic pickup: An X (filled square) is the target pattern thread sitting above the weft; a dot (·) sits below. It is not an instruction to lift every X. Open the natural shed first; then lift or lower only the threads needed to match that row’s target motif.

Target motif: 6 rows (top to bottom) × 5 pattern threads (P1–P5)
Row Natural shed P1 (end 3) P2 (end 6) P3 (end 9) P4 (end 12) P5 (end 15)
Row 1 H shed P1 up P2 down P3 down P4 down P5 up
Row 2 U shed P1 up P2 up P3 down P4 up P5 up
Row 3 H shed P1 down P2 up P3 up P4 up P5 down
Row 4 U shed P1 down P2 down P3 up P4 down P5 down
Row 5 H shed P1 down P2 up P3 up P4 up P5 down
Row 6 U shed P1 up P2 up P3 down P4 up P5 up

Chart key: Filled square (■ or X) = pattern thread ABOVE the weft (visible motif float). Dot (·) = pattern thread BELOW the weft (hidden on underside). This is the target appearance, not an instruction to lift every X.

Row 1 of 6 Natural shed: H upper (odd row)
P1 ■ P2 · P3 · P4 · P5 ■
Lift from lower shed: None
Lower from upper shed: P3

Row 1 worked steps: Open the natural H shed (heddled ends in upper layer; follow your loom manual for shed action). Pattern threads P1, P3, and P5 are naturally in the top layer. The motif calls for P1 and P5 on top, but P3 below. P1 and P5 already sit on top. Push P3 down into the lower shed. P2 and P4 are already below. Pass shuttle and beat. Before opening shed U for row 2, release P3 back to its natural shed.

Row-by-row adjustments for Bordered Pickup Key Fob (5 pattern threads, 17 ends total)
Row Natural shed Target motif Lift from below Lower from above Worked explanation
Row 1 H upper (odd) X...X None P3

Open natural H shed (odd row). P1, P3, and P5 are naturally in the upper layer. Target motif requires P1 and P5 up, but P3 down. Lower P3 to the bottom layer. P2 and P4 are already down.

Row 2 U upper (even) XX.XX P1, P5 None

Open natural U shed (even row). P2 and P4 are naturally in the upper layer. Target motif requires P1, P2, P4, and P5 up. Lift P1 and P5 from the bottom layer. P3 remains naturally down.

Row 3 H upper (odd) .XXX. P2, P4 P1, P5

Open natural H shed (odd row). P3 is naturally in the upper layer. Lift P2 and P4 from below. Lower P1 and P5 from above. P3 remains up.

Row 4 U upper (even) ..X.. P3 P2, P4

Open natural U shed (even row). P2 and P4 are naturally in the upper layer, but target requires only P3 up. Lift P3 from below. Lower P2 and P4 from above.

Row 5 H upper (odd) .XXX. P2, P4 P1, P5

Open natural H shed (odd row). Same target as row 3: lift P2 and P4 from below; lower P1 and P5 from above. P3 remains up.

Row 6 U upper (even) XX.XX P1, P5 None

Open natural U shed (even row). Same target as row 2: lift P1 and P5 from below. P2 and P4 remain naturally up; P3 remains naturally down.

17-End Baltic Pickup Threading Breakdown

12 ground and border threads (cream 8/2 cotton) + 5 pattern threads (navy 8/4 cotton). Total: 9 H (heddled) / 8 U (open).

Left border (2 ends) End 1 (Cream · H)
End 2 (Cream · U)
5 Pattern threads P1: End 3 (Navy · H)
P2: End 6 (Navy · U)
P3: End 9 (Navy · H)
P4: End 12 (Navy · U)
P5: End 15 (Navy · H)
8 Ground spaces Ends 4, 5 (Cream · U, H)
Ends 7, 8 (Cream · H, U)
Ends 10, 11 (Cream · U, H)
Ends 13, 14 (Cream · H, U)
Right border (2 ends) End 16 (Cream · U)
End 17 (Cream · H)
Draft and shed diagram — not an on-loom photograph: Shows Baltic pickup thread mechanics. Heavier pattern threads (navy) run between ground threads (cream). When an upper pattern thread is pushed down or a lower thread is picked up, it alters which side of the weft pass the thread floats on. Consult your own loom manual for specific peg routing and shed action.
Baltic Pickup Shed Adjustment Mechanics Diagram Cross-section diagram illustrating natural upper and lower ground sheds, with a pattern thread picked up from the lower layer or lowered from the upper layer. Upper ground shed (cream 8/2 ends follow natural shed) Lower ground shed (cream 8/2 ends follow natural shed) Lifted to upper shed Weft Pattern yarn: 8/4 cotton (thicker)
02

Finished key fob band (maker’s photo)

Bordered Pickup Key Fob woven and recorded by a maker following this exact sampling setup.

Maker photograph of Bordered Pickup Key Fob sample with navy motif and cream borders
Maker-provided photograph of the woven pickup sample. The maker reports following this exact 17-end, 5-pattern-thread draft without changes.

Yarn setup reported by maker

Pattern ends
5 navy 8/4 cotton ends (ends 3, 6, 9, 12, 15; about 295 tex)
Ground & borders
12 cream 8/2 cotton ends (4 border ends: 2 each side; 8 ground ends; about 148 tex)
Weft
Cream 8/2 cotton (matches ground to keep borders clean)
Threading
17 ends: 9 H (heddled), 8 U (open). P1=H, P2=U, P3=H, P4=U, P5=H.
Motif repeat
6 rows repeating. One row = one weft pass.
Structure
Baltic pickup with plain-weave ground and 2-end plain borders.

Float outcome, edge crispness, and band thickness depend on warp tension and beat firm-ness; physical width and strength were not independently laboratory-tested.

View all Baltic pickup starters in our catalog →

03

Plain-weave draft comparison

Understanding how warp color drafts differ from Baltic pickup motif charts.

04

Essential pickup rules & common mistakes

Five vital rules that ensure clean geometric floats and prevent broken pattern repeats.

Rule 1

Always reset adjustments before changing shed

After passing the weft and beating, return all lifted and lowered pattern threads back to their natural shed before opening the next row. If you leave threads held out of position, the next shed may not open cleanly.

Rule 2

Target motif is not a physical lift command

An X or filled cell indicates the pattern thread must sit above the weft. On row 1 (H upper), P1 and P5 are already on top naturally—do not touch them! Only lower P3 from above.

Rule 3

Check chart reading direction

Read this starter from Row 1 at the top down to Row 6. Each row represents exactly one weft pass. Other publications may read bottom-up or chart only unheddled ends; never assume all charts follow the same layout.

Rule 4

Check the chosen yarn contrast

This starter uses navy 8/4 cotton pattern ends with cream 8/2 cotton ground ends—approximately twice the linear density. Yarn thickness affects coverage; other yarn combinations need a sample before assuming the same result.

Rule 5

Keep weft tension and beat consistent

Pulling the weft too tight narrows the band and distorts pattern diamonds into tall, thin shapes. Beating too softly makes floats look loose and snag-prone.

05

About this starter & worked row mechanics

Walk through rows 1 and 2 to see how the natural shed does most of the heavy lifting.

Row 1 detailed mechanics (H upper): Open the natural heddled shed (heddled ends in the upper layer). Pattern threads P1, P3, and P5 are naturally in the top layer. P2 and P4 rest in the lower layer. The target motif is X...X (P1 and P5 upper, P2–P4 lower). P1 and P5 are already upper. P2 and P4 are already lower. The only adjustment is to push P3 down into the lower shed. Pass the shuttle and beat.

Row 2 detailed mechanics (U upper): Return all threads to neutral, then open the natural open/unheddled shed (unheddled ends in the upper layer). P2 and P4 sit in the top layer. P1, P3, and P5 rest in the bottom layer. The target motif is XX.XX (P1, P2, P4, P5 upper, P3 lower). P2 and P4 are already upper. P3 is already lower. The only adjustment is to lift P1 and P5 from the lower shed into the upper layer. Pass the shuttle and beat.

Compare each target row with its natural shed. In this six-row starter, rows 1–6 need 1, 2, 4, 3, 4 and 2 pattern-thread adjustments respectively; leave the other pattern threads in their natural layer. Remember that drafts specify threading order and layer relationships rather than physical peg circuits or mechanical motions—consult your loom manual for how your model opens up and down sheds.

06

Downloads & resources

Printable sheets, interactive generators, and project finishing guides.

Free Printable Worksheet

Two 17-End Inkle Starters (PDF)

Download our free 2-page Letter teaching worksheet covering both Quiet Harbor (plain weave) and Bordered Pickup Key Fob. Includes complete warp orders, H/U threading, pickup row tables, and blank fields for recording your sample measurements.

Download 2-page starter PDF

Sources and record integrity

This guide synthesizes established inkle pickup principles with maker-documented sample data:

Christina Garton (Little Looms, April 18, 2023): In "How to Read a Simple Inkle Draft", Garton emphasizes that inkle drafts present warp threading across a two-row grid where each colored cell represents one warp end. Blank cells serve as layout spacers to maintain alternating columns, and repeat brackets must be expanded before cutting yarn.
Anne Dixon (The Weaver’s Inkle Pattern Directory errata, Interweave): Published inkle conventions vary by author. For example, the errata for Anne Dixon's directory documents alternative charting conventions that use filled rectangles specifically for unheddled ends and read rows from the bottom up. Weavers must always check the specific legend and directional arrows of their source publication.
Annie MacHale (A Spinner Weaver, "Pattern Drafts"): On her blog, the author notes that drafts on her site place heddled ends in the top row and open ends in the bottom row, with blank spacer squares serving solely to align alternating ends rather than representing extra threads. She advises weavers to always consult their loom manufacturer's manual for proper peg paths.

Prepared by InklePattern. Published on 2026-10-03. Bordered Pickup Key Fob sample photo and yarn record are supplied directly by the maker; no external authors endorse this specific starter draft.